Greek Reality is Life by Candlelight

One of the more picturesque sights in downtown Athens last month came to view when bus drivers of the disfranchised Urban Transport Company (EAS) were set upon as ‘scabs’ by striking, erstwhile colleagues when lined up to apply for new licenses. They were assaulted, beaten, stripped and turned into the street as naked as the day their mothers brought them into this cruel world.

Law-and-order folk on hand noted that only two of the ruffians who incited this ignoble scuffle were arrested – and then only briefly. So, quickly consulting The Oracles of Nostradamus (one of the few classics that sells steadily and well in this country), they announced that the Day of Ethnic Reckoning was at least 24 hours closer than it was the last time something awful happened.

The whole thing began when the government decided to dismantle over¬staffed, heavily indebted EAS and privatize public transport. There were walkouts and confrontations. But strikes in Greece, like grapes, hemorrhoids and certain stars, come in clusters. When the government tabled its social security reform bill in Parliament on August 30, the country’s two major unions joined the bus drivers and brought Athens to a stop.

It had been hard enough for elderly ladies to clamber onto the back of requisitioned army lorries, although the children had fun (until school started). But when the demonstrations began, usually rallying around Omonia Square first, then marching up Stadiou and finally shouting in front of Parliament, sensible people tried to stay home if they could afford to.

Among those actively involved were the employees of trolleys (ILPAP), the metro (ISAP), the railways (OSE), the Federal Aeronautics Board (OSPA) and, most dramatically, DEH, the electric company which cut down its power to a level that rotating cuts had to take place all over the metropolitan area for several weeks to prevent total blackout failure. Of course, the Lord’s Day was excepted for this when that foot-weary strikers want to be home and watch the telly. For the rest of the week, the underprivileged often had to rush to another suburb at 7:30 to catch the latest episode of Oi Treis Harites.

Following the domino theory, banks and post offices joined in, and all walks of life were affected from hospitals (where vaccines under refrigeration began either to succumb or threatened to get lively) to tourism. At Ellinikon Airport the baggage trolley parade cheerfully advertising Metaxa, the Spirit of Greece, often grew 500 strong which in 35-centigrade heat at midday made Hellas the unforgettable experience it loves to boast of in foreign ads. For business, of course, it wasn’t very good. There’s a rumor that 30,000 businesses are on the verge of bankruptcy just around Athens. The electricity cuts alone are said to have cost the economy over a billion drachmas a day.

For politicians it was worse. The government would love to back down but it can’t afford to. The economic hole that the country has dug and then fallen into is too deep. Even the opposition is unhappy. Knowing that the present austerity measures have to be taken, it can’t effectively complain because it doesn’t want to be saddled with them if (and when) it comes back to power. Even the bushy-tailed conservatives can only be coy about their objections for the same reason. For the young and the ambitious right now, amid all this havoc, the only thing to do is to look studiously out of the window at nothing at all.

To try to put a damper on things, the law warned of the dangers that come with disturbing the peace, doing grievous bodily harm, being in unlawful possession of arms and using offensive weapons. The government was even eager to remind the public that in other EC countries reduction of public power production of above 15 percent is un-constitutional. Will these threats materialize? Of course not. It’s just a tempest in the family teapot, but it seems necessary to put on ethical airs for Western consumption (and, in the long run, ours).

Local moralists say that Greek society is in a state of crisis. Hardly news, since this has been the solid state since the children of Herakles wandered down through the Balkans three millennia ago, and they’ve done a pretty good job of carrying on. Greeks as we all know (opos einai gnosto), thrive on crisis and it’s only when times are calm that every one gets bored and things really start falling apart.

Should we be optimistic? Of course. Greece, say the gloomy, isn’t as good for business as was hoped. Yes, but that depends on what, your business is. If you’re into plastic toilet seats, maybe it’s better to sit this one out. But if you’re in the business of living, can anyone say there is any place more rewarding?

There we are, looking deep into each others’ eyes, just showered down in Papoutsanis soap suds, into our cool Tseklenis outer garments – and suddenly DEH douses the lights. Let’s face it, if you’re committed to this world, if love is your business, isn’t this the real thing?

If you’re more practically minded, there’s another thing to make you happy: Fathers of multi-member families can now get cheaper bus licences. If you can prove you are the father of eight children or more, you can now get a bus license for free. A big blue bus is all yours. But watch out for the unemployed men out of a job at the door. They may not only strip you, but castrate you. Well, whatever happens, it’s always better by candlelight.